Monday, August 31, 2009

Día 4 - Basque Country


It's Monday morning and the alarms (plural) go off early.  We grab our carry-ons and descend the now familiar staircase to the street.  We have *just* enough time to walk to the bus for the airport.  This is a 20 minute walk through the paths of cobblestone, which only amplifies the sound of our carry-on wheels.  It's 5 am and Barcelona is just waking up... though there were quite a few just going to bed.

The flight was fast and painless.  Our plane lands promptly in Bilbao at 8:20am.  We wander through downtown a bit...

Then hop their streetcar to stash our luggage at the bus station, then make our way back toward city center and the Guggenheim.  Hoorah!  The museum had a quaint little café with al fresco dining that looked appealing, and so we ordered up desayuno and waited for the museum to open.

... I know what you're waiting for.  It wouldn't be us without a picture of our food.  Kristen enjoyed a small plate of olives and a tortilla, which are made differently by each region - not to mention each establishment.  The Basque version was a little more runny, but equally delicious.



I ate a jamón and egg croissant.  

Of course, we washed this all down with café cortados.

The views from the patio, not only of the Guggenheim, but also the landscape, were gorgeous.

¡El Guggenheim!
A few exhibits were outside.  Kristen stealthily snapped a photo of these chrome tulips by Jeff Koons.
                               
Once the museum was through with us, we hopped back on the nifty streetcar to the bus station.  The streetcar was conveniently located just down the block from the museo.


I'll just note this here and now - the transit in Spain rocks.  I don't care what you've heard.  We traveled by airplane, bus, streetcar, subway, train, and taxi, and not once did we have an issue.  And it was all in Spanish!  ¡Viva tránsito público en España!

We downed a quick caña while waiting at the bus station. 
  
Then off we were, yet again.  Destination: San Sebastián.
¡Yay autobús!


Our diesel-fueled road trip through Basque country was gorgeous.
I highly recommend bus or train travel through some of these regions if you have the time.
A little over an hour after boarding the bus, we are deposited into San Sebastián... wow.  Our pensión is not too far from old town.  Close to an enormous, beautiful cathedral, and within a short walk to the beach.
The edges of this sidewalk and portions of the banister are marble.  Marble!
San Sebastián is gorgeous.  We arrived at the beach and our jaws dropped.  I'll just let the photographs talk for me here.





After lazing about at the beach, we donned our cover-ups and strolled through the marina area and part of town.













We had been exploring our new surroundings, and trolling for seafood, when we heard a commotion in the distance.  We walked toward the sounds and discovered our luck.  We had arrived in San Sebastián during their Saint Sebastián festival!  

Festivities abounded, with Basque participants in traditional clothing, re-enactments, music, speeches, and singing.  It was an amazing cultural experience, which, thankfully, I also have video of.






We continued our meandering once the cannon shooting stopped and headed to a nearby postre shop.  The confections here were delicious.

So delicious, in fact, that we would come back later the same night to split a dessert and snap a photo.

If you ever find yourself in San Sebastián, go here.

As the sun set, we continued to wander the streets of San Sebastián.  This really is the best way to, not only familiarize yourself with the town, but soak up the life and energy of the city.  Getting lost in the alleyways, greeting old ladies sitting on their stoops, or finding an amazing 300 year old hole-in-the-wall tapas joint is the best fun you can have.



The streets of downtown were abuzz with people thanks to the festival.
Once night fell, a candle lit processional wound through the dark streets and ended on the steps of a massive cathedral.  My camera captured the assembled choir singing songs of Basque country, while the crowd swayed and sang along.  As soon as I am finished completing the blog, I will create a movie of all this amazing footage.
Once we had our fill of the conductor and his choir, we set out in search of food.  We found a corner tapas bar not too far off the main plaza.  We enjoyed a few of our own picks as well as a couple of recommendations from our helpful bartender.


We returned to our pensión buzzed, tired, and happy.

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