Monday, August 31, 2009

Día 4 - Basque Country


It's Monday morning and the alarms (plural) go off early.  We grab our carry-ons and descend the now familiar staircase to the street.  We have *just* enough time to walk to the bus for the airport.  This is a 20 minute walk through the paths of cobblestone, which only amplifies the sound of our carry-on wheels.  It's 5 am and Barcelona is just waking up... though there were quite a few just going to bed.

The flight was fast and painless.  Our plane lands promptly in Bilbao at 8:20am.  We wander through downtown a bit...

Then hop their streetcar to stash our luggage at the bus station, then make our way back toward city center and the Guggenheim.  Hoorah!  The museum had a quaint little café with al fresco dining that looked appealing, and so we ordered up desayuno and waited for the museum to open.

... I know what you're waiting for.  It wouldn't be us without a picture of our food.  Kristen enjoyed a small plate of olives and a tortilla, which are made differently by each region - not to mention each establishment.  The Basque version was a little more runny, but equally delicious.



I ate a jamón and egg croissant.  

Of course, we washed this all down with café cortados.

The views from the patio, not only of the Guggenheim, but also the landscape, were gorgeous.

¡El Guggenheim!
A few exhibits were outside.  Kristen stealthily snapped a photo of these chrome tulips by Jeff Koons.
                               
Once the museum was through with us, we hopped back on the nifty streetcar to the bus station.  The streetcar was conveniently located just down the block from the museo.


I'll just note this here and now - the transit in Spain rocks.  I don't care what you've heard.  We traveled by airplane, bus, streetcar, subway, train, and taxi, and not once did we have an issue.  And it was all in Spanish!  ¡Viva tránsito público en España!

We downed a quick caña while waiting at the bus station. 
  
Then off we were, yet again.  Destination: San Sebastián.
¡Yay autobús!


Our diesel-fueled road trip through Basque country was gorgeous.
I highly recommend bus or train travel through some of these regions if you have the time.
A little over an hour after boarding the bus, we are deposited into San Sebastián... wow.  Our pensión is not too far from old town.  Close to an enormous, beautiful cathedral, and within a short walk to the beach.
The edges of this sidewalk and portions of the banister are marble.  Marble!
San Sebastián is gorgeous.  We arrived at the beach and our jaws dropped.  I'll just let the photographs talk for me here.





After lazing about at the beach, we donned our cover-ups and strolled through the marina area and part of town.













We had been exploring our new surroundings, and trolling for seafood, when we heard a commotion in the distance.  We walked toward the sounds and discovered our luck.  We had arrived in San Sebastián during their Saint Sebastián festival!  

Festivities abounded, with Basque participants in traditional clothing, re-enactments, music, speeches, and singing.  It was an amazing cultural experience, which, thankfully, I also have video of.






We continued our meandering once the cannon shooting stopped and headed to a nearby postre shop.  The confections here were delicious.

So delicious, in fact, that we would come back later the same night to split a dessert and snap a photo.

If you ever find yourself in San Sebastián, go here.

As the sun set, we continued to wander the streets of San Sebastián.  This really is the best way to, not only familiarize yourself with the town, but soak up the life and energy of the city.  Getting lost in the alleyways, greeting old ladies sitting on their stoops, or finding an amazing 300 year old hole-in-the-wall tapas joint is the best fun you can have.



The streets of downtown were abuzz with people thanks to the festival.
Once night fell, a candle lit processional wound through the dark streets and ended on the steps of a massive cathedral.  My camera captured the assembled choir singing songs of Basque country, while the crowd swayed and sang along.  As soon as I am finished completing the blog, I will create a movie of all this amazing footage.
Once we had our fill of the conductor and his choir, we set out in search of food.  We found a corner tapas bar not too far off the main plaza.  We enjoyed a few of our own picks as well as a couple of recommendations from our helpful bartender.


We returned to our pensión buzzed, tired, and happy.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Día Tres - Barcelona

This was our last day in Barcelona and a relaxing one.  However, the morning started with two big glitches:

1) We accidently woke up 2 hours late

2) We arrived at La Boqueria for breakfast and shopping to find that it is closed on Sundays

Sadness - La Boquería was one of my must-do's while in Barcelona.  This revelation was followed by much pouting.  After a few blocks of heavy sighs and furrowed brows we found a gem of a coffee shop.


Recovering with two café cortados and croissants.  My almond one was especially divine, filled with almendra cream.  Yum.

We wiped the crumbs from our face and headed off to catedral numero dos.
There was a mass service when we visited, which was cool to watch, but also resulted in partial closure.  We also were donning tank tops upon arrival, this not being appropriate attire for the cathedral, we were not allowed entrance.  For once, we were thankful for the gypsies outside that were selling scarves for only 1 euro.  We quickly covered our shoulders and explored as much as we could.
After a quick churro con chocolate stop


We headed to the Palau de Música Catalana.  Another much anticipated stop for yours truly.



We took a guided tour of this amazing concert hall.  Though the Palau was also built in a modernist style with nature motifs, it was not designed by Gaudí.  It was designed by Lluís Doménech i Monaner between 1905 and 1908.  The design, history, and sound here is amazing and beyond beautiful.  Pictures inside were not allowed, however, I snagged the below photo from the web to give you a sense of it's beauty.

They played a recording of the famous (and much loved by myself) pipe organ piece "Toccata and Fugue in D Minor" by Bach.  Amazing.  If you're in Barcelona and a music fan, go here.

After touring the vast halls of the Palau we walked back home, changed, and headed to the beach!
  I found this very accurate, commissioned piece of Kristen and I on the walk over:


You should also beware of rogue forklifts






Finally, the beach.  Ahh...

We wandered the beach and unknowingly sat at the beach table for a place we had wanted to visit anyway.  Carpe Diem, hottest club and foremost gay haunt on the beach of Barcelona.  Score!

After lounging here for a bit and enjoying a drink, we decided to head further down the beach. 

This sculpture actually had a water feature

After admiring the sand sculptures and beautiful people, it was time for a snack.  Kristen ordered up a bocadillo de jamón.

While I enjoyed some raspberry gelato and found more funny ads to photograph.

 
We walked the length of the beach back to the bus stop to head home for a shower and to change for the evening.
    
Refreshed and ready for the night we once again hopped on the subway
and took the green line to the Fontana stop 
               
                                            
At the recommendation of my friend Ferran, who is from Barcelona, we decided to grab a drink and tapa in Barri de Gracia.  This is a neighborhood without a lot of tourists and one of Ferrans favorite barrios.  
It's full of life, plazas, independent cinemas, and good friends.  We enjoyed some cañas and jamón before heading back up to Montjuïc for the "Font Mágica" show.  This is a Bellagio style light, water, and music fountain show.                                                                                                                  
The show was amazing.  It lasted about 20 minutes and included parts of the following songs: Chariots of Fire, The Show Must Go On by Queen, Theme from The Godfather, Theme from The Lord of the Rings, and many more.
  
It was now around 10:30 pm and we were hungry.  We'd walked off the caña and jamón long ago, so we headed back to the subway and our barrio - Born.
                                                        
We enjoyed dinner at Tavern del Born, our neighborhood bar for a tapas dinner.  We each imbibed sangria and shared a plate of pulpo feira (octopus a la gallega) and pimientos de padron.  This was our last meal and day in Barcelona.  It was fun and exciting but we were ready for new challenge and a change of scenery.      
                                                                                             
We headed "home" one last time and prepared for our early flight to Basque country...